point break

here i am. It’s been a long time. venice. meetings. sadness madness joy weirdness and now surfing. i cant get enough of this. I borrowed a board three weeks ago and have been going every morning sometimes twice a day, I’m not good,

but it feel so good , to find something i want to do all the time -reminicent of when  i learned to rock climb or when i finally did a back walkover in grade three.

an unforeseen door has opened and  now there is a lifetime of learning that i look forward to . i have this hope now, again. hope to surf